Makalu Expedition

Makalu ExpeditionMakalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is considered the technical mountain to climb. Normally, four camps are set up in the approach excluding ABC which will be set up at 5,300m. We follow the lateral moraine, hike onto the glacier and set up the camp I at a glacial plateau at 6,150m. We further proceed the direction of the glacier plateau in the direction to Makalu La, climbing stretches of steep slopes and arrive at the base of the Makalu La to set up the camp II at 7,000m. We climb the Messner Headwall towards the North West Ridge at Makalu La and the site of camp III at 7,300m. Camp IV will be set up on the North Ridge at 7,850m and climb up the couloir to gain the final ridge at the summit (8,462m).

Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) south-east of Mount Everest of 19km on the border between Nepal and China. It is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. It has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678m) lies about 3 km north-west of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-east of the main summit across a broad plateau and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle is Chomo Lonzo (7,804m). Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team led by William Siri in the spring of 1954. 

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Fact of Makalu Expedition

Name of Expedition: 

Mt. Makalu Expedition


8,481 m (27,825 ft) 


Khumbu, Nepal / Tibet, China




Highly Adventurous


5th World Highest Peak 


Strenuous & Difficult


Trekking and Mountaineering

Minimum Altitude:


Maximum Altitude:

8,481 m


April to May


Private vehicle and domestic plane


59 Days

Entry Point:


Exit Point:


Walking hours per day:

5 to 7 Hours

Group Size:

2 to 15 Persons