Baruntse Expedition

Baruntse ExpeditionBaruntse is one of the beautiful 7,000m peaks in Nepal. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on normal route. The approach to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La and then to Baruntse base camp. (5,250m).

Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in the approach of the mountain. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the South – East Ridge. We then move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m.

From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we past through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.

Baruntse is located in the eastern part of Nepal in the Khumbu region. It is crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, Barun Glacier on the east and Imja Glacier on the north-west. Mt. Baruntse was first climbed May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition. It is one of the most beautiful mountains of 7,000m snow peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal.  It is a substantial and symmetrical snow peak in the heart of Khumbu massif surrounded by some of the famous peaks of the world. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on normal route via South Ridge. The approach to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La and then to Baruntse base camp (5,250m). The route is not technically and essentially a straightforward climbing on snow and ice with some sections of over hangings. Normally, two high camps are established above the base camp in Baruntse climbing. The camp I is set up just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m.

  • Day by Day Itinerary
  • Trip Facts
  • Service Includes & Excludes
  • Departure Dates

Fact of Mt. Baruntse Expedition 

Name of Expedition: 

Mt. Baruntse Expedition

Elevation:

7,129 m (23,389 ft)

Location:

Khumbu Region

Range:

Barun Himal

Rating:

Highly Adventurous

Grade:

Strenuous & Difficult

Activities:

Trekking and Mountaineering

Minimum Altitude:

2,620m

Maximum Altitude:

7,129m

Season:

September to October and April to May

Transportation:

Domestic Fly

Duration:

40/44 Days

Entry Point:

Lukla

Exit Point:

Lukla

Walking hours per day:

5 to 7 Hours

Group Size:

2 to 15 Persons